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  1. #1
    OG/TSD Refugee
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    Parts list:

    6x6x4 enclosure - gray powder coat finish with KO's

    Here is a single gang gray powder coat finish Bell Box

    Here is a double gang gray powder coat finish Bell Box

    Here is a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) Relay: You DONT want this for your timer box but this is what you would use for a flip. That's also only 25A and low voltage coil contacts. Just using it as a picture.

    If you want the proper DPDT relay to build a 2 ballast 120v flip, then this is the one:
    Relay, DPDT, 8 Pins, 120VAC - Relays - Relays - Electrical : Grainger Industrial Supply


    Here is a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) Relay. This is what you want for your timer box:

    More specifically, this is the one you want:
    http://www.levitonsupplies.com/itw1199opstp.html
    or this one
    Relay, DPST-NO, 6 Pins, 120VAC - Relays - Relays - Electrical : Grainger Industrial Supply

    That's a 30A DPST Relay with 120v coil contacts.


    Then you would want a NEMA 14-30R receptacle which is what you would tie the 10/3 homerun into and flush mount/old work it into a gang box in the wall if at all possible.

    Plate it:

    A 14-30P 30A cord: The other end just has 4 loose wires. Red,black,white and green, all #10 stranded.

    A 30A DP breaker for the main panel: This is a siemens. Just make sure you get the proper type breaker for your main panel.

    Then get your self an in-wall timer. What ever brand you prefer. Just make sure it's 120v 2 wire. Will probably have 2 black wires. One is an incoming hot and the other is the outgoing hot. It should also have a neutral wire to power the display.

    Get yourself quite a few of these. They are #10 crimp on fork, or spade, terminal connectors. They should be rated for 600v. I highly suggest you use a ratchet crimper instead of the "squeeze" on crimper. You would terminate one of these each to the 4 loose ends of the 14-30P cord. Well... Just do the red and black actually.

    Get some of these: #14 Blue crimp on terminal connectors: These will terminate to both of the black wires coming from the timer. One to one of the center contacts of the relay (wire labeled load). The other timer wire will terminate with the incoming black #10 wire to an outer post of the relay (wire labeled line). The red incoming wire will terminate to the other outer post of the relay (same side tho, the other pole).
    Your incoming #10 neutral will be wire nutted to a #14 stranded white conductor that has one of the blue fork terminals on the other end. That #14 terminates to the other center contact of the relay.

    Hope I'm not loosing you. I'll do a mock wire up in a day or so. Ok, so the timer is fired up and so is the incoming side of your relay.

    You need to pick which Bell boxes your going to use. Probably the double gang ones will work the best. Attach one to the right side and one to the left side. Use a metal NM conector to attach the Bell boxes to the 6x6x4 enclosure:

    Uh, throw the digital timer in the right hand double gang closest to the enclosure. Then put a regular 15A receptacle right next to it (to the right of the timer) in the same gang box.

    Wire nut a #14 white solid underneath the other neutrals in the 6x6x4 and route it into the right double gang box with the timer. Attach it to the silver screw of the receptacle. Please don't backstab your receptacles. You'll probably also need a stranded white #14 to attach to the timer.

    Take a #14 black solid wire and crimp a blue fork connector onto one end really good with your ratchet crimper. Put that under one of the open relay contacts. The one that is directly opposite of the incoming black #10 (So it's on the same "pole" but on the "load out" screw of the relay). The other end of that #14 black solid conductor terminates to the brass screw on the 15A receptacle. No fork terminal, just hook the solid conductor around the screw terminal of the receptacle. Same deal with the #14 white solid neutral on the receptacle.

    With me so far?

    So far you've got an always hot timer and a timed 15A duplex receptacle. The timer and duplex receptacles are in the same double gang Bell Box.

    Now lets jump over to the left hand double gang bell box that is still empty. Take a #10 black stranded and also a #10 red stranded. These can be had by the foot at Lowes or Home Depot. Crimp the hell out of one end of the black and one end of the red with one of those yellow fork terminals. Put the black wire under the terminal that already has a black #14 on it. The one that is feeding the 15A receptacle. Take the red wire fork end and terminate it to the only left over screw on the relay. It will be on the same pole as the incoming red #10 feed only on the other end of the pole (the outgoing feed screw).

    Take both those red and black #10 stranded wires and route them into the left hand double gang box. You need two red wire nuts and some Nema 6-20R's. 2 of them, duplex style.
    "There he goes. One of God's own prototypes. A high-powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die." Hunter S. Thompson
    Overgrow Original | Sp3cialSt3v3420 | 2001 - 2006 | Overgrow The World
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  2. #2
    OG/TSD Refugee
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    Now, make sure your ballast power cords will mate with those. They should. Take some red and black solid #12 wire and wirenut 2 black pigtails to the incoming stranded #10 feed using a red wire nut. Do the same thing with the red conductor. One black to one side of a receptacle and a red to the other side of the same receptacle. Repeat for the left over receptacle.

    Now, as a last step, get a ground bar kit. Something small. I prefer to use cuttler hammer because they have the cool green screws.

    Try to polish/sand a small portion of the gray paint off the inside of the enclosure and mount the ground bar to the inside on the bare metal. You'll probably have to pre-drill some holes to mount it.

    Oh yea.... Mount that relay in there as well.

    Use all #12 solid green insulated conductor for your grounds. Take 4 pieces of the green #12 and wirenut one of them to the incoming #10 green feeder cord. Use a red wirenut for this. Hell, maybe a white one will give you a better fit. Dunno. Terminate that #12 that you just wire nutted to the ground bar. Take another #12 green and run it over to the 15A receptacle. Take the other 2 and terminate them to the 240v receptacles. You should have one space left on the ground bar. If the 120v timer has a ground screw, then do the same thing for that.

    Plate both your double gang boxes. Use this one for the 240v timed left gang box: If you can find one in powder coat gray then all the better.

    Plate the right hand double gang box with one of these. Make sure it's metal and again, powder coat gray would be cherry:

    That's it unless I accidentally forgot something. That'll make a nice timer box. Just make sure you've calculated your load that you'll be drawing and make sure you stay under 24A for that box.

    Remember, the ballasts are 240 and whatever you plug into that timed 15A receptacle is 120 so add your 120 and 240 loads properly when doing a load calc.

    Also remember AT ALL TIMES that we are mixing and matching gauges of wire here which is a BIG no-no. The NEC expressly forbids it!!!! If you only use #14 to the 15A receptacle, then please always beaware that it's limited to 12A. Again, with your 2 20A duplex receptacles, we used #12 solid. Make sure that each receptacle will never see more than 16A.

    But you've got an even more overall concern and that's to also make sure that the #10 wire used throughout never sees more than 24A.........

    ALWAYS keep a constant vigil on your loads when mixing and matching wire gauges, breakers and receptacles. If you don't, the chances of a fire are all but certain. In fact, I'll gurantee that thing will go up in flames if you don't keep an eye on what you plug into that. What you really should do is use #10 EVERYWHERE and atleast use spec grade 20A receptacles everywhere. That will GREATLY reduce the risk of something catching on fire or melting down. In fact, I will all but guarantee it'll be 100% safe if you use #10 everywhere and try to limit the use of the spade connectors. Working with that much #10 is going to be a bitch tho. It can still be done however...... That was my Public Service Announcement. You guys would be wise to heed it whenever possible.

    Hey... Also, you can use nothing but stranded wire and spade connectors on all ends for the receptacle connections. I don't really like it as a personal preference, so that's why I was just telling you to crimp the relay connections and then use straight up solid copper to connect to the receptacles. For some reason, I just REALLY don't trust those spade connectors. This is why I pretty much insist that you use a ratchet crimper because they make a better connection thereby is more likely to reduce/eliminate any hot spots and resistance from a crappy mis-crimp....

    I don't know. Try to use solid as much as possible. Especially on things like the ground bar. Those terminal screws are NOT rated for stranded wire. Neither are the screws on a receptacle. Or the screws on that relay for that matter. The conundrum is, that you will have too many wires to fit under some of those relay screws so we are pretty much forced to use a spade connector..... Just be leary of those suckers and make sure you get a solid connection with them.


    That's all for now I'll post the rest of this tutorial later tonight...or tomorrow
    "There he goes. One of God's own prototypes. A high-powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die." Hunter S. Thompson
    Overgrow Original | Sp3cialSt3v3420 | 2001 - 2006 | Overgrow The World
    TSD OG 2011-2013 | Hippie420 | Former Forums Manager

  3. #3
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    Moreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!
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    “ In case you haven't noticed - which you haven't, 'cause from what I can tell, you don't notice anything ever - we are not very functional when we're high..”

  4. #4
    WEEDWATCH AEROPONICS GURU
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    I have a half built controller...

    Hippie finish this tread bro lol

    so i can finish my controller!
    WEEDWATCH'S AEROPONICS GURU AND SITE SUPPORTER.


    “ In case you haven't noticed - which you haven't, 'cause from what I can tell, you don't notice anything ever - we are not very functional when we're high..”

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