How to make feminised seeds!

[smokey]

I found an article in high times where Soma talks about various methods to make fem seeds, the method he goes into depth with is IMO the best of them all.

HIGHTIMES.COM > RODELIZATION: SOMA'S WAY TO FEMALE SEEDS

[supergrow74]

There is one good method for producing your own feminized strains by making female seeds combining white widow and purple power.

[Assanya]

Why would you want feminized seeds?

Growing cannabis regularly and try to produce seeds, the resulting seedlings end up being about 50% men and 50% women. This can be a major handicap to the cannabis grower, because male plants produce no psychoactive cannabinoid THC marijuana very or otherwise. Therefore, when growing cannabis indoors, most producers will pull all men cannabis plants as soon as they are discovered. Another problem with the male cannabis plant is accidentally plants can pollinate female cannabis that will focus on making seeds instead of sinsemilla. Sinsemilla is the term for cannabis flowers / buds that do not contain seeds. Sinsemilla is dry most of the producers are trying to produce when grown cannabis. Identification and elimination of male cannabis plants can be a bit of pain and male plants also take up valuable space in the grow room until her gender is evident when they are forced to start flowering. So what can you do? If you create feminized cannabis seeds, then all the resulting plants will be female and never have to worry about men again.

[Xofect]

There will never be a true feminized seed "as the word is implied" Life finds a way to perpetuate.
Anyhoot;,,Here are a couple methods and a detailed rip on how to do it if so desired. Not my rip but one I follow and have seen used successfully.
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

It is important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.


Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.

Silver Nitrate info:
ICSC:NENG1116 International Chemical Safety Cards (WHO/IPCS/ILO) | CDC/NIOSH
http://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/...%20solution.pdf

For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:

Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.

Sodium Thiosulfate info:
http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/SO/s...hiosulfate.html
http://www.med-chem.com/MSDS/Sodium_Thiosulf.htm

------------------
Where to get the chemicals:

Photographic chemicals, photo chemistry, photo processing equipment, photo chemicals

silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=27&langID=0

sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=28&langID=0

Postage runs around $4. Fast service. Can be shipped to Canada.

Have fun experimenting with this technique. Use STS with quality F1 strains developed by professional breeders for the most consistent results.

[Xofect]

Shit; just realized I highjacked the thread. Sorry!

[iccm]

[QUOTE=Xofect;4548]There will never be a true feminized seed "as the word is implied" Life finds a way to perpetuate.


Props my friend..and very good info you have jacked there..lol...Now on the matter of fem seeds...(IF YOUR A SERIOUS MARIJUANA GROWER,), YOU WOULD NEVER USE FEM SEEDS (LEGAL STATES OR COUNTRYS ONLY)...(CLONESSSSSSSS)..LMAO..Well if you know what your doing then you'd (KEEP) that mom (Grown from seed) and just clone the hell outta her...Why Not??? I STILL LOVE THE INFO AND THE INPUT...KARMA for you ...

[RalphWiley]

Im not a big fan of fems, but sts is the most common method. I only "fem" plants if theyre something i may want to use later. But it should be mentioned that you may want to take some clones off whatever you want to fem, and stress em to see if they have herm tendencies since fems tend to increase the ratio of herms. I pull my plants aways from my lights and push em together real close for a lil while. Youll end up with beans where the branch meets the stalk. Theyll be larger than normal. You wont get a whole lot, so its not a method id use to make packs, but a great way to keep a particular phenotype for future use.

[mal]

I like feminized seeds, lost all my clones so for outdoor this summer I'm going with all or mostly feminized seeds. This way the seed plants I put out I won't have to worry about males. A few years ago I grew some seeds in one of my 45 gallon smart pots and only 3 seeds from 1 pack sprouted(reefs WW) I grew these bitches to 8' before they all showed male. I had lots of other plants but I had to get rid of alot of males from them as well. Usually in the summer I run clones but shit happens, I'm in the boonies and have been fucked by everyone I've tried to work with, so I'm a 1 man band. Hope all is well with you and yours

mal

[EIGHTGAGE]

Hope things start 2 shine 4ya Mal